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Tim Carmody breaks down a Gladwell essay on two classic condiments. Among its other virtues, “The Ketchup Conundrum” took the word "umami" mainstream, Carmody writes: "I can’t stand ketchup. Any ketchup ... But I am riveted by the story of ketchup regardless, because Gladwell’s offered me a route, through history, science, and the words of men and women here and now, to understand these odd human beings around me who love the stuff."